Pronounced “oll-yow”, Olhão is the Algarve’s largest fishing port. A rare gem, its centre is crumbling, charming, faded, and stuffed full of appealingly batty characters. The occasional tourist wanders about, wondering quite why they’re here. Olhão is a top place for a relaxing long weekend. I’m intent on being inert, but rouse myself sufficiently to discover that the jewel in its crown isn’t actually in town, but a lovely ferry ride away.